Prada was full of sexual tension for SS22



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Fashion, as you probably already know, has gotten incredibly exciting this year. You could say that the whole world did it. In pop culture, sex has become everything anyone could talk about, rap, even watch on TV (or on their laptop, if the studies are to be believed). Horny, WAP, sexual, sensual, whatever you call it – the emergence of the world after a year and a half of pent-up isolation and Zoom calls gives way to a new era of dirty sexuality. The SS22 season has almost grazed swimsuits, with skin brazenly displayed on the catwalks and clothes getting leaner. We saw it in London, with designers like Supriya Lele, Nensi Dojaka and Maximilian. In Milan, even Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons – two paragons of a certain coldness from Northern Europe – have felt the call of the sirens of sexuality and bare skin. Their latest collection was a “seduction by reduction” and “an expression of sexuality through clothing”.

There were short satin skirts in classic Prada colors (tangy tangerine, chartreuse, dark rose) with thin, folded origami trains, and the dresses were backless, barely tied with lo-fi lacing that was not not undone (undress late at night or hastily dressed the next day). Old-fashioned leather jackets were worn with nothing underneath. The sweaters came with the outline of the bras, the corset bonings flared from the waistline of the sleeveless tops. But it wasn’t underwear as outerwear that we saw from young fashion guns. It was the idea underwear and sexuality built into the construction of fairly ordinary clothing, like gray sweaters (the kind Ms. P bowed into), linen tank tops, black square blazers, and straight satin mini skirts. “Everyone denies their traditional connotations of restriction – they are reconsidered, rethought, confronted,” the show’s notes explained. “The body is liberated.

This is a noticeable change from the covered knits of Prada’s previous seasons. These collections insinuated protection and tactility, a kind of hygge comfort as a balm for the darkest depths of lockdown. Now that the world is opening up, however, and there is a sense of rebirth in the air. Not so much the sparkling celebration of the Roaring Twenties, but something more stripped down, even stripped down. Miuccia and Raf took the layers off to reveal something pretty simple underneath all of their puffy nylons and shaggy faux fur from last year. Of course, less is more when it comes to dressing to seduce, but it’s also a feeling that suits our new pace of life in real life. Less thing – embellishments, prints and novelty – more clarity; simple clothes for really going out, whether at the office or at the club.

It was the first Miuccia-Raf show with an audience, organized in the vast Desposito de la Fondazione Prada, the seats formed from a Tetris block of gray cubes with scattered screens. On them were scenes from Shanghai, where a duplicate show with an all-Asian cast was taking place at exactly the same time. As the models emerged, their images displayed on the large pieces of tech throughout the set, it felt eerily odd. Isn’t this supposed to be an IRL show? Haven’t we spent enough time looking at screens? But then, it’s the global digital reality we live in, always plugged into the global web. It spoke of the enormous chasm between two continents – at least physically – but of a strange sense of symmetry. Maybe there’s a metaphor about duality and dialogues, something Miuccia and Raf have already talked about when asked what it was like to work together. It’s a balancing act, and it’s also a reminder of how isolated we have been in our own bubbles. There’s a whole world out there – and a lot of people want Prada.

Also, most people will see these catwalks through pictures and videos, which goes to show that a fashion show is no longer just for a small group of industry professionals – it’s an overall experience. whose brands must be warned. Last year gave everyone, insiders and outsiders alike, a front row seat. But take it from someone who was there and saw it on screens and in person simultaneously – these are clothes you’ll want to wear next summer because they’ll always look better IRL.

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